Night Race Supper Club – Jalan Besar After Dark

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  • Check out the must-see highlights of the area
  • Hear the hidden stories and the uncover the "not-so-known" local favorite hang outs as well

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2 hours
City Square Mall (McDonald’s)
Jalan Besar
Min Age : 15+
Max People : 12

Four nights only. Thursday, 8, Friday 9, Saturday 10 and Sunday 11 October 2026. We start when the track goes quiet.

Here is what happens when the noise stops.

Sixty-five thousand people stand up at the same moment and begin walking in the same direction. Last October, the concert at the Padang finished at half past eleven and the last trains left at half past twelve, and a great many people discovered that an hour is not very long. A photographer who has covered this race for years called it bizarre. Somebody else described shuffling from the Padang to City Hall without being able to properly walk.

We would like to suggest walking the other way.

Fifteen minutes from the circuit, in the opposite direction to all of that, Jalan Besar is doing what it does every night of the year. There is a kopitiam here that never closes. There is a curry rice stall that has been trading since 1930 and does not stop until nearly three. There are kitchens in this district that do not get properly busy until the rest of the city has gone to bed.

For three nights in October we are running our night food tour on race-weekend hours. Twelve people. Real supper — not tastings, not canapés, not a plate of things on sticks. You will sit down. On plastic chairs, under fluorescent light, eating what this city actually eats at one in the morning.

We are not affiliated with the Grand Prix in any way. We are simply the people who know where to eat afterwards.

What is there to do in Singapore after the race finishes?

Very little, if you stay near the circuit. The good restaurants stopped seating hours ago, the hotel bars are four deep, and the clubs want you to queue. This is the standard complaint of race weekend and it surfaces every single year.

What most visitors never learn is that Singapore runs a whole second dinner service. We call it supper, it happens between ten at night and four in the morning, and it takes place in districts the circuit crowd never reaches. Jalan Besar is the best of them. It is fifteen minutes away and it might as well be a different city.

Where do Singaporeans actually eat after midnight?

Not where the guidebooks send you. Supper here is its own institution, with its own hierarchy of stalls and its own etiquette, and it is taken seriously. It is where people go after a shift, after a wedding, after an argument, after a long night that is not finished yet.

Jalan Besar has been doing it longer than most. The district sits on the edge of what was once the New World Amusement Park, and it kept the hours of the people who worked there. It never really stopped.

Do I need a race ticket to join?

No. Some of the best conversations we have had on this tour were with people who watched it on a television in a coffee shop and came out for supper anyway.

You are equally welcome if you have a grandstand seat, a hospitality pass, or no interest in motor racing whatsoever and simply happen to be in Singapore on a weekend when the hotels have doubled their prices.

Where do we meet, and how do I get there from the circuit?

We meet at McDonald’s at City Square Mall, on Kitchener Road. Two stops on the train from the circuit, or about ten minutes in a car once the roads reopen.

We send exact directions and a pin when you book, along with specific advice about which exit to use — which, on race weekend, is worth considerably more than the directions.

How do I get home afterwards?

We finish around one in the morning, in a district where things stay open until three and four. Cars are straightforward to get here, because you are well clear of the surge around the circuit. That is not an accident; it is most of the point.

Trains run later than usual on race weekend, though not as late as most people assume. We will tell you exactly where you stand on the night, because we would rather you knew.

Which night should I choose?

Thursday, Friday is the earliest and the easiest. The track goes quiet sooner and you will be eating while everyone else is still queuing.

Saturday has the best atmosphere in the district. The city is properly awake by then.

Sunday is the one people remember. Race finished, weekend over, adrenaline still running, and a table of food at midnight with eleven strangers who all watched the same thing. Book Sunday early. It will go first.

Is this suitable if it is my first time in Singapore?

It is one of the better ways to start, though we would say that. You will learn how to order, what things are called, which stalls to trust and why, and where to come back to for the rest of your stay. People often tell us it changed how they ate for the remainder of the trip.

What if it rains?

It will probably rain. It is October. We run anyway — we carry umbrellas and ponchos, and much of the route is sheltered. Wear shoes you do not mind getting wet and you will be perfectly happy.

Why us

This tour was named a finalist for Outstanding Tour Experience at the Singapore Tourism Awards 2026 — a category the Singapore Tourism Board describes as recognising “a quality tour that has provided an authentic Singapore experience through compelling and engaging storytelling.”

Time Out lists it among the best food tours in Singapore, and named our Geylang night tour one of the seven best food tours in Asia. Across 1,610 reviews on Tripadvisor our average rating is 5.0, and we have held a Travellers’ Choice award for more than ten consecutive years.

We mention all of this only because you have no particular reason to trust a stranger with the last night of your weekend, and somebody ought to vouch for us. We would rather it was them than us.

Tour Details

When you join us on a tour through Jalan Besar, you’ll have the opportunity to immerse yourself in the colorful history and culture of the area. From the historic cabarets and lively nightlife, to the delicious hawker food and bustling street markets, there’s something for everyone here.

As you explore the district, you’ll get a chance to witness firsthand the resilience and strength of the people who call Jalan Besar home. From the tragic collapse of Hotel New World in 1986, to the closure of the beloved New World Amusement Park, the community has faced its fair share of challenges. But through it all, they have remained resilient and have continued to thrive.

We will uncover the real Singapore hidden within the back streets and side alleys of Jalan Besar. You don’t need to be brave for this one – just hungry for some surprises! 

Departure & Return Location

Starting Point: City Square Mall, Level 1 (Outside McDonald’s) (Google Maps)

Fixed Departure Time

Thursdays 8th, Friday 9th, Saturday 10th, Sunday 11th October ONLY

Or Email Us at info@indiesingapore.com to arrange a private tour!

What to Expect

We start on a street Singapore has never quite known what to do with.

Petain Road was named in 1928, after Philippe Pétain — then one of the great heroes of France, the man who held Verdun. Two years later, eighteen shophouses went up along it, and they remain among the most beautiful in the country. Spanish ceramic tiles. Stucco cranes and phoenixes. Malay eaves and colonial columns, all on the same façade, all at once.

Twelve years after the street was named, Pétain signed an armistice with Hitler and spent the rest of the war collaborating with Nazi Germany.

The street is still called Petain Road. In 2012, Professor Tommy Koh wrote in The Straits Timessuggesting it be renamed after de Gaulle. Nothing happened. It is still there, still beautiful, still named after him, and most of the people who drive past it every morning have no idea.

We stand under those tiles at eleven at night and talk about what a country does with a name it would rather not have.

Then we eat.

Bistro 8 on Foch Road is a kopitiam — a coffee shop, the ordinary kind, the kind in every housing estate in Singapore. No air conditioning. Plastic chairs. It is open twenty-four hours a day and it does not care what time you turn up. Kok Kee wanton noodles. Bak kut teh from a stall that has been making it since 1978. Fried porridge, which is exactly what it sounds like and considerably better than it sounds.

This is where Singapore eats at one in the morning. Not the rooftop bars.

A stop at one of the local favorite eating places that is opened 23 hours a day (and not listed on Google Maps).

We finish with the ugliest plate of food in Singapore.

Beach Road Scissors Cut Curry Rice has been trading since 1930. There is no menu you can read. You point. Whatever you point at is cut up in front of you with a pair of kitchen scissors — pork chop, braised belly, stewed cabbage, egg — piled onto rice, and then drowned in three separate gravies until the whole thing is a brown, glistening, structurally unsound mess.

One of Singapore’s best-known food writers described it as “the ugly, gooey, glorious mess.” He meant it as praise. So do we.

This is the plate our tour is named after. It is also, and we will take no argument on this, the best thing you will eat all weekend.

 

The FAQ Section

  • Is Jalan Besar safe at night?

    • Yes. While it has a colorful history, Jalan Besar is today a safe, vibrant hipster-meets-heritage neighborhood.

  • I don’t eat spicy food. Can I join?

    • Yes! While some dishes have spice, many “Ugly Food” classics like Wanton Noodles and Tissue prata can have non-spicy versions.

  • Is this tour suitable for children?

    • We recommend this for adventurous eaters (teens and up). The environment is gritty and authentic.

 

Where we meet
Outside McDonald’s City Square Mall

Photos
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